So a lady came in to see me the other day, desperately in the process of trying to grow her hair out, wanting that longer hair she’d had when she was younger. It was somewhat getting longer, but not anywhere near the length she was imagining on herself.

I questioned her as to when she had last cut or trimmed her hair, because quite frankly it felt like … cotton candy. She said it had been at least eight months, and how she was being so good by not succumbing to the shears in so long and thus getting so much more length to her hair. Also, she had been really looking after it by treating it gently using baby shampoo.

Ok where do I start on this one …?

First, the best approach to growing your hair longer is not to completely stop trimming altogether. Keep up with regular salon visits. It is best to maintain hair with a cut every five to eight weeks to keep the style you’re wearing, so maybe extend by another week or two to get a little extra length but don’t go months. Your ends will start splitting and, like a fraying rope, split deeper up into your midlengths and then can no longer be taken off by a mere trim of the ends.

I have helped many of my ladies to grow out their locks with minuscule trims on a regular schedule; we call it a dusting. I just nip the dust of hair from the ends (literally a millimeter) to keep it growing healthily, with maybe a hint of shaping to evolve the style as it grows out. In the long run your hair will actually grow out better faster than just leaving it alone for months.

Next we have the issue of “looking after by using baby shampoo.” Products and creams and shampoos and conditioners have a Ph balance, as do our bodies. Ph is the measurement alkaline or acidity measured from 1 to 10(1 being alkaline, 10 acidic). Hair is nearer to the acidic end of the scale, above 5 – 7.5. Baby shampoo is designed not to sting baby’s eyes while washing their hair; eyes are much lower on the Ph scale. The result of using a low Ph balance shampoo can really damage hair with continuous use.

If you need to get some good conditioning into hair that has been abused either by chemicals or overstyling, there is a great oil made by Dr. Hauschka. It’s called “Neem” oil and can be found at beauty supply stores as well as on the shelves at places such as Whole Foods.

Just put about a teaspoon or so in your hands and pull it through your hair, and then brush it through your hair. You’ll find it absorbs really well. You could sleep with it in and shampoo out the following day. It’s something you can do weekly, and I think you’ll love the moisturizing and supple feel your hair feels after this oil treatment.

Matthew Shields was attending Fashion College in England when at 16 he realized that hair styling was the natural extension of his creativity. At 21 he moved to the United States and has found great success. Fifteen years ago, he was discovered by international stylist Sally Hershberger, who developed his eye and honed his talents. His career includes working on movies and with actors such as Meg Ryan, Jane Fonda, Greg Kinnear, Ellen DeGeneres, Lisa Rinna among others. Send your questions to Matthew@smartnow.com.